By Kathy Harlan
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WHY WOULD SOMEONE GET INTO THE WINE-MAKING
BUSINESS, RISKY AT BEST, IN A STATE PRONE TO
TORNADOES, DROUGHTS, HUGE TEMPERATURE
SHIFTS, FLOODS, HURRICANES AND HAIL STORMS?
EVIDENTLY FOR THE SAME REASON THAT THE OIL
WILDCATTERS DID. THEY HAVE THAT SAME TEXAS
ENTREPRENEURIAL SPIRIT, BELIEVING AGAINST ALL
ODDS THAT THEY CAN AND WILL SUCCEED.
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Not so long ago a discussion of Texas wines would be met with
disdain by oenophiles who joked about the proper wine to serve with
chicken fried steak. Texas wineries were compared to the oil field
estates where uncivilized wildcatters got lucky once in a while. No
more. Wineries from the Lone Star State have been consistently
winning awards at some serious competitions. Now the fifth largest
wine-producing state, Texas boasts 21 varietals grown within its
borders. Since 2000, the number of Texas wineries has grown from
42 to 138, adding $200 million a year to the Texas economy.
Texas wines remain undiscovered by the rest of the world, however.
Over ninety percent of the wine produced in our state is consumed
by Texans. Many of the Texas wineries are small, and almost all the
production is sold directly from their showrooms. Some wineries
sell to large entities such as Specs, HEB and Kroger where they are
purchased directly by local consumers.
The Texas Agriculture Department is trying. Just a couple of
months ago it put together a wine demo trip to New York in hopes of
convincing some of the restaurateurs and east coast media that Texas
wines are legitimate. They sent Paula Disbrowe (chef and author
of Cowgirl Cuisine), former Oakland Raiders defensive tackle and
vineyard owner Alphonse Dotson, and Dallas Morning News reporter
Wes Marshall to try to get the city slickers to do some “blind” taste
tests. They report that just a few were willing to put their expertise
on the line.
Given that Texas now produces some pretty good wines, that
Texans usually take pride in local accomplishments, and that Texas
restaurateurs are often innovators, wouldn’t you expect to see Texas
wines on the lists at your favorite restaurants? Think again. A Texas
wine on a restaurant menu is as rare as a UT football player at the
opera.
Joe Mannke, owner-chef at Houston’s Bistro Le Cep says, “Most
restaurateurs just don’t bother to learn about Texas wines. They
would rather sell Kendall-Jackson and be done with it.” His extensive
wine list includes no Texas entries.
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